How to make your Visit to the Greenbrier Resort unforgettable
If you’re visiting the Greenbrier resort in the mountains of White Sulphur Springs West Virginia, you’ll want to make it as spectacular as possible because you deserve a great trip if you’re going to take the time and money to do it. I’m going to show you what I recommend after recently visiting the historic hotel for the second time.
The first time we visited was a kid free getaway we did a few years ago with my friend from college and her husband. I was pregnant and so was she, which changes things but we still had a blast. It’s almost a halfway meeting point for each of us as we live in horse country just outside Louisville, KY, and they’re in Charlotte, NC. The second time was completely different. We visited along with our 4 children and we met my husband’s parents there. Oh add in the ongoing pandemic so that makes everything extra interesting.
Champagne wishes and caviar dreams when you arrive
When we visited in February of 2017 for the first time, I thought it was glamorous that they hand you a glass of champagne upon check-in. I didn’t get to partake at the time because I was pregnant with our 3rd child so this was something I was looking forward to during our next trip. Of course, because of Covid-19, they halted that tradition. Hopefully they’ll bring it back soon because who doesn’t like getting handed a fun drink just for showing up someplace?
The Falconry experience is a must do!
Our FAVORITE activity to enjoy at the Greenbrier is the falconry. This is pricey but man, it’s GREAT. We enjoyed this activity during our second stay at the resort with our four kids and my in-laws. You take a short (maybe 5 minute) bus ride to the area where the birds are located. Did you know this is a 4,000 year-sport? If you took the falconry lesson, you’d learn that! You see a variety of hawks and owls and they fly so close to your face at times, you can feel the wind on your face from the flapping of their feathers. One beautiful bird came about 2 inches from my face! It was thrilling!
Our guide, the head falconer Cody, is knowledgeable and allows lots of questions. He said he rotates out which birds the group can hold depending on the size and ages of the group. Our group had a Red Tail Hawk land on our gloved hands. It was so cool! Even our two year-old (he was two at the time) got to participate and have the bird land on him. That was such a highlight!
We learned about the history of falconry, the evolution of the sport, how the birds are used for hunting, what’s involved in becoming a falconer and which birds are most effective. There is nowhere to sit and there is a little bit of walking involved so keep that in mind. Oh, and it’s all outdoors so bring a jacket if it’s chilly.
The kids LOVED it, and we all learned a lot. Some of these birds can even take down a deer. Once they’ve done that, the falconer throws them a treat and takes the deer that’s been hunted. It was $145 per person but we felt like it was worth it for our group.
I highly recommend the Bunker Tour
If you’re visiting the Greenbrier, I highly recommend the bunker tour. Whether you’re in to history like my husband and me or not, I think it’s a must-see if you’re staying at the resort. If you’re not familiar, I’ll give you the synopsis because I find it fascinating. I hope you will too.
Underneath the Greenbrier Resort is a massive bomb shelter intended to serve as an emergency hide-out during the Cold War for members of Congress. It was never used during an emergency, but it was stocked with supplies in case of one and was top secret for 30 years before a couple of Washington Post reporters got wind of it and outed it in 1992. Darn reporters! I’ve been one for 20 years so I can say that!
Celebrities, families and even some royalty visited the resort enjoying golf, swimming and fruity drinks all the while having no idea a massive bomb shelter was below for every member of the House and Senate in the event of a nuclear disaster. From 1952 to 1962, the bomb shelter was built below-ground under the guise of a well-publicized above-ground addition to the hotel. It was effectively hidden in plain sight.
You must surrender your phone and any cameras or electronic devices before you start the tour because they say a data company uses part of the bunker for storing documents and computer devices. There are employees who keep your electronics locked away until you’re finished viewing the now declassified shelter, or you could just leave your stuff in your room if you’re staying overnight. So you obviously can’t take any pictures but there are some online. During the tour you can view the 25 ton blast door and the bunk beds intended for each member of Congress. You also see the decontamination showers where members of Congress would need to wash off and surrender their clothing to be immediately incinerated post nuclear disaster.
The cafeteria area was interesting because the floor is black and white checkered. It was intended to be off-putting so members of Congress wouldn’t stay too long as the room wasn’t large enough to seat everyone at once.
The tour is about 90 minutes long and cost $39 for adults and $20 for young people ages 10-18. It’s pricey but we found it interesting and well worth it. You have to be 10 years-old to visit the bunker. There is a good amount of walking involved and it can be a little chilly so bring a sweater and comfy shoes.
The indoor pool is such a beautiful throwback
When we were there most recently in September during Covid, the outdoor pool wasn’t open. The kids really enjoyed swimming in the indoor pool though which we did several times. It’s free for overnight guests. It was built in 1912 and remodeled in the 1940s and feels like a total throwback – in a good way. There was a lifeguard there who’d been there for many, many years. We chatted about the history of the place for a while.
Greenbriar History
A little history – people started coming to the natural mineral springs nearly 240 years ago to bathe in and even drink the water that they believed had healing power for pain, muscle aches and a host of other issues. People would come to “take the waters” to restore their health. People still come to enjoy the spa. My husband and I and our friends all got massages there when we visited years ago. We didn’t do the massages this most recent time around as I thought it was a little pricey for what you got.
The hotel was closed during the Civil War and used as a hospital and military building. It was converted back to a hotel after the war. It was there the likes of Vanderbilts, Fords, Kennedys, Babe Ruth and Bing Crosby vacationed.
During WW2, it was used to house German, Japanese and Italian diplomates and then converted into a hospital for the army. For four years, it was used as a military rehabilitation center. After that, it was converted back to a hotel and decorated, and I do mean DECORATED, by a renowned decorator named Dorothy Draper.
There are bright pinks ,and blues, and reds, and greens, and humungous flowers and thick stripes all over the walls. Think if Vera Bradley ate some trippy mushrooms and mixed her designs with that of Willy Wonka and then painted the walls. How do you like that for a description? It’s worth a visit just to see the extravagant and opulent decor. Bring sunglasses though if you’re offended by bright and bold colors.
There are more than 900 guest rooms and each as brightly colored as the next. Draper’s apprentice Carleton Varney took over for her and wrote a book called Romance and Rhododendrons: My Love Affair with America’s Resort. He once told a reporter Draper would come around to all the design stations in their office and say, “Show me nothing that looks like gravy.” Mission accomplished Ms. Draper. Mission accomplished.
There’s an arcade and bowling alley for entertainment
There’s a small arcade with games next to a bowling alley which our family enjoyed with the kids. The arcade isn’t big, but the kids enjoyed playing the games and were highly entertained by it all. I will warn you, they go through their tickets quickly so get ready to spend some cash on it all.
Watching the little ones try to roll the balls down the bowling alley was hilarious.
We enjoyed the horse carriage ride
One of my favorite activities was the horse carriage ride we did around the property. We did this in late September and some of the leaves on the trees were just beginning to change and were really lovely. If you go even later in the fall the leaves are even more spectacular I hear.
I see why Joseph and Rose Kennedy honeymooned here in October of 1914. It’s lovely. The ride took us all around the Old White Golf Course where my husband and his father played. There are three golf courses but one is for members only. I loved seeing the course where my husband played and all the beautiful houses around it.
My husband actually saw a bear on the course the day before! He golfs frequently and found the course simple in layout but challenging to play. Golfing there with his Dad has been something my husband has wanted to do for years. He was delighted to be able to enjoy that time together and cross that off his bucket list. My hubby is an avid golfer as is his entire family so there are many more courses I’m sure we’ll soon be hitting up. My goal is to learn so we can all play as a family as our kids are getting into it too.
The trees and scenery were beautiful, and he really loved that special time with his father. It was also fun to get an overall look at a section of the 14,000 acre property.
There are a couple of restaurants and a casino
The food situation was challenging our second time around because it was during the pandemic so there was limited capacity at all the restaurants. Many places get booked up super quickly which was tricky. We ate a Drapers several times because it was the most available.
I didn’t realize there was complimentary coffee in the Upper Lobby from 6 a.m.-9 a.m. so the first 2 days we bought coffee. Ugh. My thrifty side was NOT thrilled.
I worried about how my kids would handle wearing masks and constantly using hand sanitizer, but they took it all in stride. They even got used to pushing the elevator buttons with their elbows instead of their fingers which is something we should all probably do anyway to avoid germs.
In the afternoon, the resort offers a complimentary high tea from 4:15 p.m. – 5 p.m. complete with little sweet treats. My 5 year-old (at the time) LOVED dressing up and we enjoyed tea together. Actually, it was her first time and she didn’t love the taste of tea so maybe next time we’ll put lemonade in her cup. My boys liked the pastry and cookies part.
We went to the informational history session that offered some history of the resort. It was interesting for the adults, but my kids got squirmy, so we had to leave after about 15 minutes.
The Chapel is beautiful and worth walking through
We never left the resort property the entire long weekend. There really aren’t many good places to eat close to the property so we just stayed at the hotel.
We did enjoy a nice walk where we visited the beautiful chapel. It opened in September 2015 in time for the owner’s daughter’s wedding to be held there. It’s located on the North Lawn not far from the main resort. I wish I’d known they offer Sunday morning worship services. I didn’t realize that until Sunday afternoon when I saw a sign outside the chapel inviting people to the service. It’s a magnificent 12,000-square-foot building that seats 500 guests. Guess we’ll just have to visit again for that!
Fun fact, the owner picked that location for the chapel after a centuries-old oak tree located there inexplicably died. He wanted a new life to come after that loss. Two wooden crosses located inside the chapel were carved from that oak tree and the stump remains along with a plaque.
The glass shop and demonstration was entertaining
Right as we we leaving, my husband and the kids popped into the glass shop just a short walk from the main hotel. The men did a glass-blowing demonstration for us right then and there and explained the steps to our kids. It was fascinating to watch, and the glass blowers (is that their official title?) were courteous and gracious to explain their craft to us. Of course, we bought a few pieces as gifts and souvenirs. Now we have two pretty glass ornaments to hang on our Christmas tree that remind us of our trip!
Pro tip
Pro MAMA traveling tip. If your room has a closet big enough for a pack n’ play, your baby may sleep better in there. Ours did. The only problem is the closet light turned on automatically when you open the closet door. So there was no discreet “peaking” on the baby as she slept. My mother-in-law came up with the brilliant idea to remove the light bulb from the closet while we stayed there so we could peek on the baby without waking her up. It worked perfectly, and she slept all the way until 10 a.m. one day!
When we visited in 2017 with my friend from college and her husband, we visited the casino and had a great time. There was a live old-school country/classic rock band playing. They would play Chris Stapleton and then follow that up with some Leonard Skynyrd. They were so talented and a total blast to watch. I didn’t make it to the casino in during this most recent trip because, well, someone’s got to stay with the 4 kids. My husband and his folks walked through it one night and may have lost some money along the way.
Overall, it was a fantastic long weekend and we’ll definitely be back. For more fun, join me on Facebook and Instagram.
For more travel adventures including our kid-free getaway to a beautiful castle in the middle of Kentucky horse country, click here.
Hi I’m Erica! TV news anchor and mom to 4 littles. I’m obsessed with creating those “wow” moments in life through crafting at home, cool travel adventures and special celebrations with loved ones. Thanks for joining me on this adventure!
